AWE Diverter Valve Relocation – Review

I recently switched my diverter valve setup from the BSH relocate kit to the AWE stock diverter valve relocate kit.  What’s the difference?  AWE’s kit uses the stock electronic diverter valve instead of a mechanical (Forge) valve as in the BSH kit.  Doing so allows the ECU to control when the valve should be closed and when it should be opened.  Not that I was unhappy with the BSH kit.  Not at all.  It’s a great setup, but I wanted to use the revision D valve in a relocate.


Enter the AWE kit.  This is a very well done kit.  Very simple and rather ingenious.  I’m impressed with the execution.  This, in my opinion of course, has to be the easiest relocate setup to install.  The parts are all of very high quality and fit precisely.  I did break the larger hose clamp.  I probably over tightened it but it may be something to keep an eye on.  This kit does not include a diverter valve.  You either reuse your stock one or purchase a revision D valve to go with it.  I did the latter.  The stock intake will not work with this kit unless you have the TSI motor.  You will need to have an intake with a diameter of 2.75 inches.  No worries as this is a very common intake size.  Just be sure to check.  The valve adapter is an anodized piece and works with any oem valve.  The firewall gasket is what you will not find on most other relocation setups.  It’s an oem part but the fact that AWE included it for convenience is very cool.  Silicone hoses are pretty much standard, if not a little thicker than the silicone BSH uses.  This kit is for all intents invisible to the untrained eye.  Just about the only visible aspect will be your aftermarket intake and the one piece of silicone that leads to the noise pipe.

Stock photo from AWE’s website. I labeled the parts.


The most difficult step when relocating the diverter valve is removing the connection to the noise maker piece underneath the rain tray.  I absolutely hate spring clamps.  Fortunately for me, I did this step when I installed the BSH kit.  AWE’s website has a PDF of all the complete steps.

Other than that, installation is very straightforward.  A 1/4 inch rachet and socket set will help make everything go smoothly when removing the stock diverter valve.  The diverter valve bolts are a 5mm hex.  A needle nose vice grip will also help with the spring clamps.  Nothing too tricky on the tool side.  Just be sure to have all your tools lined up beforehand.

Revision D Valve and Adapter

Driving Impressions

So far I have not noticed much of a difference from the BSH kit, as you would expect.  This kit is definitely quieter and I do somewhat miss the noise of the gigantic Forge valve.  I feel like the boost comes on differently but I can’t validate it without doing logs.  It feels like it comes on a little less progressively.  This could be due to the way the ECU operates the diverter valve.  Under most conditions the stock valve is closed, unlike the mechanical valve which is open under vacuum.  This doesn’t allow the engine to draw air through the noise pipe as often as the BSH kit does.  I would give a very slight edge to the purely mechanical setup in terms of throttle response.  Other than that, little difference from the BSH kit.

Why should you get this?

It all depends on what you want.  If you want the ECU to maintain full control, get AWE’s kit.  I suggest picking up a revision D valve to run with it.  If you want a mechanical setup, and especially if you have the BSH intake, go with the BSH.  I would recommend the BSH kit only with their own intake.  The ports are all matched up and you don’t have to cut anything.  BSH might be phasing out the standalone version of their kit, I haven’t seen it on their website lately.  I’m sure they still have it but you have to place a phone call.

AWE can also equip the kit to work with a mechanical valve but I can’t comment on how that performs.  I assume it will work similarly to the BSH kit in terms of mechanical valve throttle response.


I really like this kit.  Clean installation, great design, and relatively cheap compared to the other relocates.  It is practically indestructible with the D valve.  It also maintains ECU control.

This kit is highly recommended.

Noisepipe to turbo inlet coupler connection


8 thoughts on “AWE Diverter Valve Relocation – Review

  1. Pingback: AWE Diverter Valve Relocate – A Few Quick Notes « markFive GTI

  2. Great site and excellent work!

    What led you to switch from the Forge valve to the rev. D? You mentioned “the assurance of the ECU handling the diverter valve’s operations”, but what exactly does that mean to you? I am unclear as to what potential benefits the rev. D valve might provide versus the mechanical Forge valve? You stated that boost seemed to come on “more progressive” with the Forge, which seems to indicate there might be some tangible benefit to stick with that setup?

  3. Hey Derek, thanks!

    I switched from the BSH Forge valve setup because it relies solely on vacuum pressure for actuation. The oem D valve allows the ECU to maintain control, basically when to open and when not to open. This benefit is mostly for the traction control system, as there are times that the ecu will pull boost by opening the diverter valve. With the BSH Forge setup, the ecu can still pull power when it needs to but it does it by killing the throttle or closing the wastegate. An electrically operated valve will be faster at actuating when the throttle is released.

    The boost with the mechanical setup did feel a little smoother, probably due to the relocated setup. Whether it was all in my head or real I can’t say because I never did any logs to back it up. It might just be the way the AWE diverter valve relocation is setup, not as much flow through as the BSH setup.

    Forge does have a mechanical direct valve replacement for the 2.0T that also allows the ECU to control it. It is mechanically actuated by vacuum but the vacuum source is controlled by a solenoid connected to the original valve wiring.

    VS the D Valve

    The benefit of the Forge valve upfront is that it is very unlikely to fail. It’s a giant machined piece of aluminum, very nice work. It’s easy to get to for servicing, looks nice, and the large size allows quick release of boost pressure back into the intake tract. The downside is that the BSH setup requires an intake to work.
    The D valve has so far proven reliable. I’ve even moved it back to the original location on the turbo. So far so good. It’s oem, ecu controlled and has held up to APR Stage 1 boost with no problems so far.

  4. Hi just found your review and I am curious if it is possible to install the AWE DV relo and utilize the bung on the intake used by the BSH kit?
    Using the bung on the intake would eliminate the whistle harmonics sound that happens sometimes under heavy throttle. I know I am interested in removing it…

    Thanks for the write-up!

    • Hi Frank,

      I’m not sure. The AWE kit eliminates the need for that bung. Do you have the kit already? I don’t have that kit anymore but it may get rid of the harmonic even without using the BSH bung. From a quick search, it seems that it helps reduce it, but not completely eliminate it.

  5. I don’t have the kit, just doing some research…shame you don’t have it any more either…
    My thinking is instead of using the “intake to turbo inlet” coupler from the AWE kit, connect the DV kit to the bung on the intake that is capped off using a silicon coupler.

    I like the AWE kit since you can use the stock, revised electronic DV. AWE might know, but of course they won’t be able to guarantee how their products integrate with others.


    • No problem,

      You could definitely try that. You may have to remove the clips holding down the dv wiring, it may not reach up that far. If you end up doing this, share some pictures!

      On Thu, Apr 24, 2014 at 11:45 AM, markFive GTI wrote:


    • I haven’t posted about it yet, but I’m using the Golf R style relocation now. It’s basically the S3 route. Works well and looks stock.

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