I recently switched my diverter valve setup from the BSH relocate kit to the AWE stock diverter valve relocate kit. What’s the difference? AWE’s kit uses the stock electronic diverter valve instead of a mechanical (Forge) valve as in the BSH kit. Doing so allows the ECU to control when the valve should be closed and when it should be opened. Not that I was unhappy with the BSH kit. Not at all. It’s a great setup, but I wanted to use the revision D valve in a relocate.
Enter the AWE kit. This is a very well done kit. Very simple and rather ingenious. I’m impressed with the execution. This, in my opinion of course, has to be the easiest relocate setup to install. The parts are all of very high quality and fit precisely. I did break the larger hose clamp. I probably over tightened it but it may be something to keep an eye on. This kit does not include a diverter valve. You either reuse your stock one or purchase a revision D valve to go with it. I did the latter. The stock intake will not work with this kit unless you have the TSI motor. You will need to have an intake with a diameter of 2.75 inches. No worries as this is a very common intake size. Just be sure to check. The valve adapter is an anodized piece and works with any oem valve. The firewall gasket is what you will not find on most other relocation setups. It’s an oem part but the fact that AWE included it for convenience is very cool. Silicone hoses are pretty much standard, if not a little thicker than the silicone BSH uses. This kit is for all intents invisible to the untrained eye. Just about the only visible aspect will be your aftermarket intake and the one piece of silicone that leads to the noise pipe.
The most difficult step when relocating the diverter valve is removing the connection to the noise maker piece underneath the rain tray. I absolutely hate spring clamps. Fortunately for me, I did this step when I installed the BSH kit. AWE’s website has a PDF of all the complete steps.
Other than that, installation is very straightforward. A 1/4 inch rachet and socket set will help make everything go smoothly when removing the stock diverter valve. The diverter valve bolts are a 5mm hex. A needle nose vice grip will also help with the spring clamps. Nothing too tricky on the tool side. Just be sure to have all your tools lined up beforehand.
So far I have not noticed much of a difference from the BSH kit, as you would expect. This kit is definitely quieter and I do somewhat miss the noise of the gigantic Forge valve. I feel like the boost comes on differently but I can’t validate it without doing logs. It feels like it comes on a little less progressively. This could be due to the way the ECU operates the diverter valve. Under most conditions the stock valve is closed, unlike the mechanical valve which is open under vacuum. This doesn’t allow the engine to draw air through the noise pipe as often as the BSH kit does. I would give a very slight edge to the purely mechanical setup in terms of throttle response. Other than that, little difference from the BSH kit.
Why should you get this?
It all depends on what you want. If you want the ECU to maintain full control, get AWE’s kit. I suggest picking up a revision D valve to run with it. If you want a mechanical setup, and especially if you have the BSH intake, go with the BSH. I would recommend the BSH kit only with their own intake. The ports are all matched up and you don’t have to cut anything. BSH might be phasing out the standalone version of their kit, I haven’t seen it on their website lately. I’m sure they still have it but you have to place a phone call.
AWE can also equip the kit to work with a mechanical valve but I can’t comment on how that performs. I assume it will work similarly to the BSH kit in terms of mechanical valve throttle response.
I really like this kit. Clean installation, great design, and relatively cheap compared to the other relocates. It is practically indestructible with the D valve. It also maintains ECU control.
This kit is highly recommended.