Revised OEM PCV and Crankcase Breather Tube

06F129101P Front Detail

In my current quest to return some parts back to OEM spec, I’ve recently purchased the latest revision PCV components.  The latest revision PCV valve is “P” with the part number 06F129101P.  There is also another revision of the rear breather tube, part number 06F103215B.  The valves in the latest revisions seem much stronger compared to my old “G” revision.  The check valves are now spring loaded instead of free moving.  I don’t know when they switched to the spring loaded valves because I completely skipped over the 2 or 3 other revisions.

06F129101P Valve Detail

If you’re wondering why I went back to stock, I wanted to remove the catchcan I’ve been running.  An intake manifold teardown by a forum member  revealed that catch cans do little to aid in preventing the intake valve deposits inherent to direct injection engines.  I have also been thinking about the lack of intake vacuum working on the crankcase.  In the catch can setups, vacuum is sourced from intake air moving over the rear breather tube exit.  I think it is a max of 3″ of mercury according to BSH and this occurs in the higher rpms under boost.  At lower rpms, actual vacuum may be much lower.  Too little flow or stagnant flow through the valve cover may allow the blow-by gasses to start forming deposits.  I’ve noticed a little grime building up around the oil cap area, despite the regular oil changes.  The accumulation of these blow by gasses can contaminate oil and deteriorate it much faster as well.  Another side effect of routing all gasses through the rear breather tube seems to be, ironically, more oil in the charge pipes.  If a recirculation type catch can does not catch all the vapors, the rest end up condensing in charge pipes and intercooler.  The stock system sends them directly to the intake manifold to be burned off.  The way the stock system works, it only reroutes vapors through the charge piping and intercooler under boost.  When I installed my throttle pipe, a good amount of oil came pouring out of the pipes.

06F103215B Check Valve Detail

Now oil vapor in the in the intake charge is detrimental to performance.  This is where a catch can does help.  Oil vapor can effectively reduce the octane level of the intake charge and lead to more knock, which would then decrease performance.  I haven’t noticed a performance difference since I switched back to the stock system but then again, my car isn’t exactly a horsepower monster.  It is a compromise situation but after many miles of thought, I’d rather have the stock system deal with the evacuation of the crankcase gasses.  The stock pcv system flows a lot and I don’t think some of the catch cans flow enough.

06F129101P Rear Detail

The stock pcv valves have not been models of reliability, which is one of the reasons catch catch cans have sold so well. Modified and stock cars alike can blow through them.  These newer parts are now several revisions deep and they seem to be much more robust pieces.  The rear check valve in the breather tube looks much better.  The front pcv check valves have a more positive engagement compared to the “G” revision I compared it to.  I guess only time will tell!

06F103215B

BSH Throttle Pipe – Review

BSH Throttle Pipe

Overview

The BSH throttle pipe replaces the stock piping from the intercooler to the throttle body.  It has a provision for two water-meth nozzles and a noise pipe connection.  Block-off plugs are provided if you do not need the water-meth bungs or the noise pipe connection.  This is a high quality piece and it really shows how far BSH’s manufacturing methods have come.  The powdercoat is a nice wrinkle black finish, the welds, although still external, are much more uniform and the whole piece feels like quality.  Nice job BSH.

Installation

Installation was not too hard. You’ll find all sorts of stories online about how difficult it was to install the throttle body pipe but I didn’t really find it too hard.  It took me about 1 1/2 hours working at a moderate pace.  I followed the instructions for the Neuspeed throttle pipe since BSH includes ZERO instructions in the package.  I did not find any instructions on BSH’s website either.  While not a show stopper, it’s just an annoyance that really shouldn’t be there.  The best way to remove the stock throttle pipe is to undo all the necessary bolts and then remove the piece from the bottom.  I don’t even know if you can remove the pipe from the top.  You will have very little clearance to do so but it is completely possible to remove it without forcing anything.

Fitting in the BSH piece is just the opposite of removing the stock piece.  It’s easier to attach the silicone tubing to the throttle body first and then to install the BSH pipe from the bottom.  It helps to lube up the silicone with a little bit of motor oil.  It’ll become clearer as you go through the install process.  Clearance is very tight, as you can see.  There is only one mounting point on the BSH pipe.  I don’t have a picture of it but it attaches to the bolt that holds a coolant line.  Once I get down there for an oil change, I’ll take a picture.

Once everything is fitted up, double check you clearances and make sure you won’t hit the fans.  The engine does rock when you accelerate.  Check to see if you reconnected the MAP sensor and all the clamps are adequately tightened.

Driving impressions

BSH does not claim hp gains with this pipe.  They advertise it as an easy way to add water-meth spray nozzles and block off the noise pipe.  They also claim increased airflow and better engine response by virtue of the larger diameter piping.  I think I can fully agree with the engine response claim.  The biggest improvement I felt was in the midrange.  The engine just feels livelier, punchier for lack of a better word and feels much less restrained when applying the throttle.  Definitely a lot more fun to kick around town.

Overall

I really like what this pipe  has added to the character of the engine.  To me it makes driving the car even more fun.  It’s not a massive fundamental change but I noticed the change in response immediately.  It is a nice option if you want to have a reliable method of installing a water-meth spray system, but I can’t really comment on it because I don’t run water-meth.  The price hovers around 170 dollars and is available from the usual vendors.  A search on Google shopper will find the lowest price.  I really like this part and it would probably complement other intake mods very well.  I am running the stock intake and still found gains.  It is currently the best throttle pipe on the market as it offers a variety of configurations at the same price point as the others.  Recommended.

Product Reviews

I’ve been slowly reworking over some of the older product posts and turning them into more informative reviews.  They’re being compiled on one page.  Click this link or the link at the top of the header to check them out!

BSH Throttle Pipe – A Few More Pictures

Barely any clearance

 Space is a little tight…

You can see how close everything is

While it looks close, nothing actually touches

BSH Throttle Body Pipe – Quick Overview

BSH 2.0T FSI Throttle Pipe

This lovely piece is the BSH throttle body inlet pipe.  The BSH pipe has two built in bungs to make installing water-meth easier.  The pipe supports running the stock noise pipe, a diverter valve relocation or blocking it off completely.  The threaded block-off is sealed with an o-ring.  The theory is that larger diameter piping replaces the stock pipe and reduces restrictions before the throttle body.  BSH does not claim power gains with this part.  They suggests that gains come in the form of drivability with better throttle response and nicer top end.  I’m inclined to believe them.  I’ve had the pipe installed for a few days and engine response has improved.  The biggest improvement I’ve felt is in the midrange.  The engine feels “meatier” for lack of a better word.  It’s nice enough of an improvement that I don’t quite trust myself.  It could be all in my head, but it certainly feels good.  I got mine from DBCPerformance.  This is it on the BSH website.  Look around as the prices vary between vendors.

I’ll have a full review in a little bit, as for now, check out the pictures:

Water-meth bung

Threaded Noise Pipe Block-Off

I think this is the lower water-meth bung, or maybe the map sensor

AEM Dryflow Filter

If you are interested in replacing the filter on your aftermarket intake system, give AEM’s Dryflow filter design a try.  The filtration media is designed to work dry and requires no oiling.  It’s easier to clean than the K&N oiled filters and is supposed to filter better. Since it uses no oil, it avoids the risk of over oiling the filter and contaminating the MAF.  This is admittedly a rare occurrence if you take care in re-oiling a K&N.   The oiled filter design flows better but I’d sacrifice some flow for filtering any day.  The filter muffles intake noise a bit more than the standard oiled filter so keep that in mind.

This particular filter was fitted to the BSH Trueseal intake.  Take note that the BSH filter is a very narrow design.  The AEM fit there is not much clearance.  It ends up contacting the liner on the hood, not too badly, but it is something to keep track of.  The correct size is a 2.75″ inlet and 5″ length.  I think the part number is 21-202DK.

It is interesting to note that AEM’s Dryflow filters now also have the K&N logos on the box.  The filter division was bought out a little while ago, but nothing seems to have changed, save for the color (now red instead of gray) and the addition of a metal mesh(originally plastic reinforced).  AEM has another line (Bruteforce Dryflow) that maintains the design of the original Dryflow with gray filter media and internal plastic reinforcement.

BSH Diverter Valve Kit – Review

 

Forge Diverter Valve

The BSH kit is well spec’d and doesn’t scream aftermarket even with the large Forge valve dominating the view.  Granted it does ruin the illusion with the requirement of an aftermarket intake but it’s forgivable.  BSH had a few performance goals with the installation of the kit:  better part throttle engine response and reliability.  It hit both of these targets.  Lets go into more detail as to how it reaches its goals.

BSH uses the noise pipe as a recirculation pipe, routing to big Forge valve in the front of the engine bay

Better Part Throttle Response

This one seems to baffle people the most.  How can installing a replacement valve result in better response?  To answer that we need to delve into the details of the stock system.  The stock 2.0t diverter valve resides on the compressor housing itself.  This is not a bad design.  It is very efficient in terms of packaging and cost.  No need for extra hoses, pipe and other support hardware.  However, it does require the airflow to go through the intercooler when not under boost.  The BSH kit reroutes the air flow through the stock noise pipe, bypassing the intercooler and routing air straight to the throttle pipe when the engine is not requesting boost.  The mechanical operation of the Forge valve keeps it open under vacuum.  Shorter path for airflow – slightly better part throttle response.  Under boost pressure, the valve is closed and air follows its normal path through the intercooler.

Practically Unbreakable Forge Valve

The Forge valve used in the kit is massive.  It carries 1.5″ ports to match up to the stock noise and throttle pipe inlet/outlet.  The valve controls airflow with piston design instead of the diaphragm stock valves.  (Note that newer D revision valves now use a piston as well)  Constructed out of aluminum, this will last the life of your car and then some.  You can rebuild the valve several times over.  The only downside is that you’ll have to grease the valve occasionally.  Regreasing is a quick procedure that any owner can do at home.  Mechanical valves are also slower to react than electrical, but it seems to be a none issue in this kit.  The vacuum source is provided with a boost tap on the manifold.  Because of the short length of the vacuum hose (less than 5 inches) reaction time is quite quick.

Overall Design

As with most of BSH’s designs, this one isn’t pretty or gussied up.  It’s very functional and to the point.  There are no fancy pieces to decorate the engine bay.  Even the boost tap is anodized black.  You get a few specific silicone hoses and then the shiny Forge valve.  Very clean look overall as it utilizes a few stock components such as the noisepipe and and one of the hoses.  Not fancy, but it gets the job done cleanly.

Installation

The installation is not too difficult.  Follow the instructions on BSH’s site and you should be good.  It requires a few tools so make sure to have those before hand.  Here are a few suggestions though:

-The wipers do not have to be removed to move out the noisemaker/speakerbox.  In fact my wipers were frozen onto the posts.  Just a little careful lifting around the rain tray will help you.  I actually just left it in there and just disconnected the hoses I needed.  You can do that too and it will help when you have to reinstall things back to stock.

-The diverter valve blockoff will require removing the diverter valve bolts which are a 5mm hex.  Use a 1/4″ ratchet with a short extension maybe.  It’ll help immensely.

Other than these few tips, just take your time and don’t rush.  The proper tools help a lot.

Grade?

I really like this kit.  It does it’s job and does it well.  The sound the valve puts out is nice and not too loud.  It’s rather addicting actually.  It has everything you need to put it all together.  It solves your diverter valve issues and provides a nice performance uptick.  The only knock on the kit I can find is that it requires an aftermarket intake.  And if you don’t have the BSH intake with it’s built in bung, you will need to hack off a portion of the rear to fit BSH’s own rear section.  It’s not difficult but other competitors have figured out ways of using your aftermarket intake without cutting.