Disclaimer: Perform all work at your own risk, I am not responsible for you messing up your car. If you do not feel up to the task, STOP and go grab some help!
Spark plug changes on the MKV are easy. No plug wires to mess around with and the plugs are right within your reach with a few tools. I’d go as far to say that removing the engine cover is probably the hardest thing you’ll have to do… Ominous? Perhaps, but if have never removed the OEM one yourself, you’ll see why. If you have an aftermarket intake, congrats! The hard part is over and it’s easy cruising for you. Now here we go!
5/8″ Spark plug socket
Socket extension or two
T20 torx driver
4 spark plugs of your choice ( I used OEM for this)
1 or 2 zip ties – not really necessary but is saves a LOT of time – might as well get them
Antiseize – I don’t use it but I tend to check my plugs from time to time. It might be worth it if you live in a state where condensation in the coil packs might be a problem.
Step 1: Remove the stock intake/cover. Skip to Step 2 if you have an aftermarket intake.
Gather all your tools. Take your T20 torx screwdriver and remove the two screws on each side of the inlet
Here’s the other one:
The tube will just separate from the inlet. Don’t lose the two clips that the screws thread into. If you do happen to lose them, they are cheap to pick up from any parts store. Apparently they are called U Nuts. Speednuts are another name for them.
Then unclip the turbo inlet tube from the intake cover. Don’t forget to unclip the maf sensor harness as well.
Here comes the hard part: pull up hard on the engine cover. Be especially careful around the plastic by the oil filler. It is very thin and will crack. Mine is already cracked there. Pull up one corner at a time. It’s easier if you from the bottom left and go counter clockwise from there. If it has never been removed, it will be very difficult. Prepare to curse the guy who designed it. There are four rubber grommets on which the cover sits. After removing them, add a thin layer of grease to ease the removal next time. If the grommets pop off, they just fit right back into the engine cover.
Once you have removed the engine cover, congratulate yourself and marvel at your bare engine. If you look closely, you can see that one of the grommets fell out.
Step 2: Remove wiring harness, coil packs and spark plugs
Press down on the clips that hold the coil packs in. Push the harness in at first to help release the clips. You’ll know when the clip has let go because it’ll click. It might take a little strength to pull the harness out of the coil pack because they have a gasket seal. Be careful not to damage the harness. Pull all four connectors off the coil.
Next pull off coil packs. I suggest using zip ties. It makes it a whole lot less time consuming. Use one or two loops and pull up. Set the coils aside.
Pull out the spark plugs next. Use the socket wrench with extension to loosen them and then thread them out by hand.
Step 3: Install New Plugs
If you’re using antiseize, place a tiny amount on the spark plug thread. A little goes a long way. Place the new plug in the spark plug socket and slowly lower in the hole. Turn the new plug counter clockwise by hand until you feel where the thread begins. Then hand tighten clockwise. Snug them up but do not torque them down yet. Install all four this way. Take out your torque wrench and torque down the plugs to 20-25 NM. I think the spec is 25NM in the service manual. Another DIY states 20 NM.
Step 4: Replace everything you removed
You are now practically done. Replace everything you removed.
Reinstall the coilpacks and make sure they are snug.
Reconnect the harness to each coil pack. It should click, indicating that the clip has locked into place.
Make sure all four rubber grommets are attached to the engine cover and push down until they lock into place.
Re-attach the inlet to the cover and replace the T20 screws. Plug in your maf as well.
Verify that all your tools are out of the engine bay and you’re done!