Any mechanical work you do on any car can be hazardous to you. As in it may cause you pain. A lot of it. Or kill you. Do things at your own risk. I am not responsible for your actions. Working on your car can be a fun and rewarding experience. Use the proper safety precautions, tools and thinking. If you are not comfortable with something…STOP!!!!!! Don’t do it! Take it to a shop. There is NO shame in that. It totally sucks to have a half assed anything on your car. Off the pedestal!
Lubromoly is now a Group III synthetic oil apparently – Still should be a good oil, just keep in mind that in Europe, true synthetics are made from Group IV and V basestocks –
There may be backstock of the old Group IV 5w-40. It will say “high tech” instead of something like “synthoil premium” – The Group IV version will also say “fully synthetic” – This is all based on recent forum ramblings and research by members of bobistheoilguy.com
If you want a “true” synthetic, Lubromoly also has a 0w-40 that is still considered Group IV
FYI: The video references a 1/8″ allen key to remove the lower undertray. This may fit but I believe the actual screw is a T-25 torx bit-
NEW! DIY oil change video
Oil Change DIY for the 2.0T FSI
Note: This is for the first generation 2.0T motor. The new TSI motors have the oil filter up top.
Things you need:
Oil, oil pan, oil container, 1 copper washer, 19mm socket, 36mm socket, T-25 torx bit, extensions, socket wrench, jack, jack stands, funnel, towels for cleanup
Jack up the car and support it underneath the front control arms with jack stands. DO NOT use the jack that came with the car. It’s called the widowmaker for a reason… Get a decent jack and a good, trustworthy set of stands.
With the car safely in the air, begin removing the undertray. It’s held on with eight torx screws. I think it’s a T-25 torx bit. Note how the front leading edge snaps into the front spoiler.
Locate the drain bolt. It takes a 19mm socket to remove it. Place your preferred drain pan (needs a 6 liter capacity) underneath the plug and remove it. It’ll drain out at an angle so place the pan accordingly and cross your fingers. Now just wait for the oil to drain out. You can open up the cap or pull the dipstick to let the oil flow out easier. When the flow slows to a drip (about 10 min), replace and snug the plug. According to VW, the drain plug is supposed to be replaced every change. WTF? Well since I don’t want to do that, just purchase some copper washers and place one on the plug. You don’t need to worry about the captive washer on the bolt.
Now for the oil filter. Unscrew the cap covering the housing drain. You have two options; You can unscrew the housing slowly and have a towel handy to clean up the oil that spills out (keep the housing upright!!!!!). Or you take a screwdriver and pad it with a towel, and shove the nipple up and over to drain the housing before you unscrew it.
Which method you choose is totally up to you, it doesn’t matter. I chose the latter. Be aware that oil WILL spill out. Put your drain pan underneath to catch most of the mess. The housing requires a 36mm socket.
Remove the old filter and O-ring. I don’t have a picture of the o-ring in the housing (sorry, I forgot to take it), but it will be located at the threaded area on the housing. The new oil filter will come with one. Make sure you prelube it and orient it with the tab facing up. Otherwise it will leak.
The o-ring in this picture is at the base of the filter. Now before anyone freaks out about the Fram, this filter is made in Germany, most probably by Mann, the oem filter supplier. The quality is a perfect match to the 20 dollar VW filter but cost 13 dollars with tax (because it is the SAME!). NAPA carries a house brand filter and so does Kragen autoparts, but the quality is terrible. Use this one.
Place the filter in the housing and push until it slides all the way in. It may take a tiny bit of force. You can tell if it is in all the way because the filter kinda locks into the housing. Replace the o-ring, pre-oil the filter with some new oil and throw it back on the car. If you drained the housing through the nipple, be sure it is snapped back in place. If not, just nudge the nipple until it pops back out. Get it? If that’s not Freudian, then I don’t know what is.
Replace the undertray. The leading edge snaps into the front lip spoiler. Double check to see if everything that needs to be tightened is tight.
Lower the car. Now take the oil of your choice and pour it in. A funnel is highly recommended unless you have superhuman pouring abilities. I used Lubromoly 5w40. Very good stuff. If you are still under warranty, make sure it has VW 502.00 approval. If not, make sure you know what you are pouring in. I recommend just sticking to a good 502.00 oil. Mobil 1 0W-40 is readily available if you are not into ordering online. You will need about 5 liters, more or less. DO NOT overfill. Check the dipstick when you are filling up. Fill it to the MAX line. When you are confident in the oil level, start the engine up. Let it run for a minute or so and then turn the ignition off. Let it sit for another minute or two and then check the dipstick again. Add the last drops needed to bring it back to the MAX line and then your are almost done.
WHAT?! Another step?! Well, it’s nothing mechanical. Jump in the car and place the key in the ignition. Press and hold “0.0” on the right side of the instrument cluster and then switch the ignition to the “on” position. Now release the button and press the “m” on the left side of the cluster. The MFD should reset. Turn the ignition to the off position. Congrats, you just reset the service reminder. NOW you’re done. Go clean up and drive! Keep an eye out for leaks on the driveway. And take your oil to a recycling center!