DIY: 2.0T FSI Oil Change (updated 4/22/2010)

Disclaimer:

Any mechanical work you do on any car can be hazardous to you.  As in it may cause you pain.  A lot of it.  Or kill you.  Do things at your own risk.  I am not responsible for your actions.  Working on your car can be a fun and rewarding experience.  Use the proper safety precautions, tools and thinking.  If you are not comfortable with something…STOP!!!!!!  Don’t do it!  Take it to a shop.  There is NO shame in that.  It totally sucks to have a half assed anything on your car.  Off the pedestal!

Updates: 4/22/10

Minor Revisions-

Lubromoly is now a Group III synthetic oil apparently – Still should be a good oil, just keep in mind that in Europe, true synthetics are made from Group IV and V basestocks –

There may be backstock of the old Group IV 5w-40.  It will say “high tech” instead of something like “synthoil premium” – The Group IV version will also say “fully synthetic” – This is all based on recent forum ramblings and research by members of bobistheoilguy.com

If you want a “true” synthetic, Lubromoly also has a 0w-40 that is still considered Group IV

 

FYI:  The video references a 1/8″ allen key to remove the lower undertray.  This may fit but I believe the actual screw is a T-25 torx bit-

NEW!  DIY oil change video


36mm Socket

Oil Change DIY for the 2.0T FSI

Note:  This is for the first generation 2.0T motor.  The new TSI motors have the oil filter up top.

Things you need:

Oil, oil pan, oil container, 1 copper washer, 19mm socket, 36mm socket, T-25 torx bit, extensions, socket wrench, jack, jack stands, funnel, towels for cleanup


Step 1

Jack up the car and support it underneath the front control arms with jack stands.  DO NOT use the jack that came with the car.  It’s called the widowmaker for a reason…  Get a decent jack and a good, trustworthy set of stands.

Drain Pan

Step 2

With the car safely in the air, begin removing the undertray.  It’s held on with eight torx screws.  I think it’s a T-25 torx bit.  Note how the front leading edge snaps into the front spoiler.

Undertray

Plastic Undertray

Step 3
Locate the drain bolt.  It takes a 19mm socket to remove it.  Place your preferred drain pan (needs a 6 liter capacity) underneath the plug and remove it.  It’ll drain out at an angle so place the pan accordingly and cross your fingers.  Now just wait for the oil to drain out.  You can open up the cap or pull the dipstick to let the oil flow out easier.  When the flow slows to a drip (about 10 min), replace and snug the plug.  According to VW, the drain plug is supposed to be replaced every change.  WTF?  Well since I don’t want to do that, just purchase some copper washers and place one on the plug.  You don’t need to worry about the captive washer on the bolt.

Oil Plug

Drain Plug (19mm Socket)


Draining Oil

Oil Draining

Step 4

Now for the oil filter.  Unscrew the cap covering the housing drain.  You have two options;  You can unscrew the housing slowly and have a towel handy to clean up the oil that spills out (keep the housing upright!!!!!).  Or you take a screwdriver and pad it with a towel, and shove the nipple up and over to drain the housing before you unscrew it.

Which method you choose is totally up to you, it doesn’t matter.  I chose the latter.  Be aware that oil WILL spill out.  Put your drain pan underneath to catch most of the mess.  The housing requires a 36mm socket.

Oil Filter Housing

Filter Housing (36 mm Socket)

Housing Drain

Housing Drain (Push up and to the side-BE CAREFUL-Don't break it)

Remove the old filter and O-ring.  I don’t have a picture of the o-ring in the housing (sorry, I forgot to take it), but it will be located at the threaded area on the housing.  The new oil filter will come with one.  Make sure you prelube it and orient it with the tab facing up.  Otherwise it will leak.

Fram CH9911
Fram CH9911

The o-ring in this picture is at the base of the filter.  Now before anyone freaks out about the Fram, this filter is made in Germany, most probably by Mann, the oem filter supplier.  The quality is a perfect match to the 20 dollar VW filter but cost 13 dollars with tax (because it is the SAME!).  NAPA carries a house brand filter and so does Kragen autoparts, but the quality is terrible.  Use this one.

Place the filter in the housing and push until it slides all the way in.  It may take a tiny bit of force.  You can tell if it is in all the way because the filter kinda locks into the housing.  Replace the o-ring, pre-oil the filter with some new oil and throw it back on the car.  If you drained the housing through the nipple, be sure it is snapped back in place.  If not, just nudge the nipple until it pops back out.  Get it?  If that’s not Freudian, then I don’t know what is.

Step 5

Replace the undertray.  The leading edge snaps into the front lip spoiler.  Double check to see if everything that needs to be tightened is tight.

Step 6

Lower the car.  Now take the oil of your choice and pour it in.  A funnel is highly recommended unless you have superhuman pouring abilities.  I used Lubromoly 5w40.  Very good stuff.  If you are still under warranty, make sure it has VW 502.00 approval.  If not, make sure you know what you are pouring in.  I recommend just sticking to a good 502.00 oil.   Mobil 1 0W-40 is readily available if you are not into ordering online.  You will need about 5 liters, more or less.  DO NOT overfill.  Check the dipstick when you are filling up.  Fill it to the MAX line.  When you are confident in the oil level, start the engine up.  Let it run for a minute or so and then turn the ignition off.  Let it sit for another minute or two and then check the dipstick again.  Add the last drops needed to bring it back to the MAX line and then your are almost done.

LubroMoly 5W-40

5W40 Lubromoly

502.00 Approval

502 Approval

Step 7

WHAT?!  Another step?!  Well, it’s nothing mechanical.  Jump in the car and place the key in the ignition.  Press and hold “0.0” on the right side of the instrument cluster and then switch the ignition to the “on” position.  Now release the button and press the “m” on the left side of the cluster.  The MFD should reset.  Turn the ignition to the off position.  Congrats, you just reset the service reminder.  NOW you’re done.  Go clean up and drive!  Keep an eye out for leaks on the driveway.  And take your oil to a recycling center!

22 thoughts on “DIY: 2.0T FSI Oil Change (updated 4/22/2010)

  1. Pingback: Cheaper Oil Filter « markFive GTI

  2. Pingback: Updated Maintenance Page Information « markFive GTI

  3. Pingback: Oil Change Diy / New Maintenance Page « markFive GTI

  4. This might be a stupid question but to loosen the filter housing do you go clockwise or counter clockwise. I know it’s usually counter but if you look at the picture there is an arrow showing clockwise?

    • To loosen the housing, you turn counter clockwise. I think the arrow is showing the direction to tighten it, as well as the torque spec. Let me know if you need more help!

  5. Thanks for such a quick response. I think whoever changed the oil before i bought the car tightened it to much. i’ll go at it tomorrow. Do you think i should use the 36mm socket to take off the filter housing or use the traditional oil wrench which is probably around 72mm. Thanks again

  6. If you can find a 36mm socket, that would be much better. I have never tried using a traditional oil wrench with this car yet. The thermoplastic housings have cracked on other peoples cars before so be careful.

    On the other hand, it does take a good bit of strength to take it off initially. Just keep the torque inline with the filter.

  7. Hello there,

    Did you try to change brake fluid or brake pad yourself with your MKV GTI before?

    Regards,
    Eric

    • Hi Eric,

      Sorry for the delay in responding. Yes, I have tried changing out the brake pads and fluid in this car. The fronts are straightforward. The rears require a tool to turn the piston while retracting it. The calipers are also mounted on with a triple square bit. Did you have a particular question about it?

      On Fri, Mar 28, 2014 at 7:42 PM, markFive GTI wrote:

      >

  8. Sorry for my response late too! Thanks for your sharing, and what tools you used to flush all brake fluid out of the system? I found on YouTube that some people recommended Motive pressure bleeder? What do you reckon?

    By the way, have you ever changed the DSG oil yourself? And why checking the fluid temperature between 35-45C is important?

    Anyways, thanks again for your information:)

    • Hello again Eric,

      I myself have used the manual two person method of bleeding as well as the Motive bleeder. The bleeder saves a lot of time and you can do it yourself. I’d recommend going that way. I have changed the DSG oil myself, several times. It’s not as intimidating as it seems at first. I can only guess why you’d want the temperature at a certain point. I’m assuming that the fluid expands and contracts with temperature and by specifying a temperature range, they know approximately how much fluid will come out.

      On Mon, Apr 14, 2014 at 10:54 PM, markFive GTI wrote:

      >

  9. Hello, me again,

    Thanks for your reply!

    I have few more questions regarding some maintenance issues:

    1. You said before that a triple square bit is needed for the rear calipers removal/installation, is this a 14mm size?

    2. I got to know in service manual that multi-point socket head bolt and caliper mounting bolt are needed to replace each time during rear wheel rotor replace, is it necessary? Or they can be reused after lubricated?

    3. For dsg fluid change, did you use VAS6262? or you just used simple funnel and hose setup to fill up the dsg box via filter housing?

    Thanks again for your helpful information:)

    Eric Howard.

    • Hi Eric,

      1. I’m pretty sure it’s a 14mm triple square. Take a peek to verify. That bolt has very little room to work with and is in there tight. If you don’t think you can work it out, don’t strip it!

      2. I have just reused the bolts. If they are cheap enough when you purchase your parts might as well pick them up. Otherwise, I have reused mine with no problems.

      3. I did use the VAS tool. It was expensive too. There are much cheaper options now. Check out deutscheautoparts.com. They have a kit which includes the tool for minimal cost. Also a great site to source parts.

      Hope this helps
      -Frederick

  10. Hello Frederick,

    Thanks for that! Your recommended website is great, I found it only delivers to US or Canada address and I am living in Sydney though.

    Today I checked my 07 mkv gti 2.0T (116000kms on the clock) with VCDS, and one fault is found: boost pressure control value (N249),mechanical malfunction-intermittent. Fault priority : 0. What should I do next? From forum some guys said N249 is N75, but it seems that they are two different parts. What do you reckon?

    Kind regards,
    Eric

    • Hi Eric,

      Sorry for the delayed response. The N249 should be the diverter valve. I think your first course of action should be to check the diverter valve. If you don’t have the piston type, the diaphragm may have a tear in it. Check that out first. If you have a spare diverter valve, you can swap that in and see if it fixes the problem. Are you having boost issues?

      -Frederick

  11. Hi Frederick,

    Thanks for helpful advice. No boost issue is noted so far. I don’t have a spare part and I think I will buy a piston version from ECS turning and replace it for the problem. Do u think other German made manufacturer DV part from ECS will do the work well or I need to buy VW part?

    Could u also tell me where I can access the DV. BTW, do u think it is also good to replace N75 as preventive measure as well?

    Kind regards,
    Eric

    • The non-VW part is what I used and has worked fine for 2 years. Get whichever part is cheaper. The N75 is the wastegate if I’m not mistaken? I don’t have any experience with that. I would start from the diverter valve and move on from there. Hope it fixes your issue!

      -Fred

      On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 5:36 PM, markFive GTI wrote:

      >

  12. Your items list states it’s a 32mm socket but in the instructions it’s a 36. It’s definitely not a 32

  13. Pingback: How To Change Oil Filter On Jetta Gti 2.0t | Information

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s